Working down south

In my last post I wrote that work is hard to find in the south of Italy. I should have said that work is hard to find for Italians but if you are a mother tongue English teacher, which I am, then you won't be short of work, well at least here in Cosenza. You'll probably be underpaid and have dodgy contracts, your bosses will think you only moved here yesterday and try to fool you into believing their contractual lies....but you'll have work.

I have been lucky since moving to Calabria. I had a job interview the day after moving here (after bel marito and I returned from our holiday in Australia in January 2010.) The next day I began work, and although it was always cash in hand with no chance of a contract I was paid well (for Calabria). There were students, I had enough work, and I had some good money coming in. I went to Scotland with my boss (and bel bambino in my tummy) and taught there at an International school. But this is Calabria this is Italy and when you have no contract and work for a somewhat flimsy school then nothing is certain.

Whilst pregnant the majority of my work was taken away from me and given to another, my boss (who was AUSTRALIAN....can you believe it. She had lived in Italy for a long time though) what was I saying? Oh, yes, my boss went psycho, and I mean psycho so I left and just in the nick of time since I have heard that she has shut up shop, without telling the students, and run off to France.

I was out of work for a few months with the good excuse of having a baby but when bel bambino was all but 3 weeks old I decided to print off some CVs and take them around Cosenza. We drove around Cosenza for a while, bel marito driving whilst I tried to find the schools. We only found 2 in the end, the others were impossibly hard to find and I wasn't actually thinking anything would come of it, but low and behold the next day one of the schools called, I went in for an interview and a few weeks later began working full time and the school.

The pay was ok, I had a contract, nothing permanent but I contract and my colleagues were great. The hours were just too much for me though. I was working a 6 day, 40 hour  week, on top of that I was doing a PON at a local school and I was translating a novel....and I had a little, tiny, bel bambino at home. When my contract ended I asked to become part time, and of course was given the lie that work would start in September, after having a forced 2 month unpaid holiday since the school was closing for the summer. So we are now at the end of September, and this forced 2 month unpaid holiday has become 3 so what else would one do but look for new work?

And new work I found, today being my second day. I am now an English teacher at a private asilo nido which is like a day care kindergarten with babies from 1 to 5 years old. I work just the mornings for 4 hours a day, and I get paid more then I was and I just chat to the 3, 4 and 5 year olds in English while they stare at me like I am an alien from another planet. 

Still no permanent contact, still underpaid if you think of wages in other countries, but I have to count myself lucky that I have work.

Seeing Italy from a different perspective

People say having a baby changes you, and in my case they don't mean just as a person, but in the way I view the country in which I live.

Italy, the country I chose to live in because it had been my dream, my obsession. Without children, without thinking too much about the future Italy is the perfect place to live, but with a baby and now thinking always about the future...well it's food for thought. The government is always taking money away from education, the price of petrol is literally rising by the day, they are closing down public hospitals left right and centre, there is no future plan to pull Italy out of this economic crisis, especially down here in the south there is next to no work and if you do have work it's normally cash in hand, and should you be lucky enough to find a contract it will be temporary, without benefits and a rather low wage.

And to top it all off Italy is one of the few counties with NO MINIMUM WAGE:.... In Australia, in Britain, in Afghanistan there is a national minimum wage, in Italy no such thing. Friends have told me horror stories about how little they actually earn, and when I say little I mean that it would be considered slave labour in other countries. food for thought.

Teaching in an Italian state school

I am working at a local state school as part of a government scheme (PON) teaching English to 23 x 11 year old students... It is certainly an...let's say it's an experience.

I have no experience of state schools in any country. In Australia I went to a private primary and secondary school - we had uniforms, rules....even nuns teaching us! School was quite strict; we got into trouble if we wore socks and not stockings in winter, if we got caught without our blazer on outside of the school then we would get in trouble, no more then one small pair of earrings, no coloured hair...no...no....no...

My first experience of public schools is therefore here in Italy, and what a place to start! 11 year old students are hard - they are not children so you cannot sing songs and read fairy tales. They are in that phase where boys are just starting to (sort of) like girls. They yell and shriek, run riot in the classroom, don't listen to a word the teacher says, make marks on the desks with their scissors, draw on each others faces with pen, throw anything and everything, insult one another - you name it, they do it (think of a tamer version of 'To Sir With Love.')

I remember walking into the classroom on the first day, having no idea what to expect. Ok, the classroom was ugly - but being a state school I sort of expected that as there is not so much money for pretty pictures on the wall. None of the students noticed me as I walked in...they were too busy screeching like banshees at the top of their lungs. I greeted the teacher and she started screaming for the children to sit down and shut up - I mean really screaming.

I was shocked - you don't scream at children...our teachers never screamed at us. But then again when they asked us to sit down we - well we sat down... Finally the students were sort of silent and my lesson with them began...

An interview with me on ItalyMONDO!

Before leaving Sorrento, I was lucky enough to re-meet Laura from the blog Ciao Amalfi and an interesting guy called Peter Farina. Peter is an American who spends half his life in Italy and half in America. He runs a company called ItalyMONDO which can help you uncover your family’s unique story, discover relatives still living in Italy, complete the circle with Dual Italian Citizenship, or take the vacation of a lifetime – returning home with vivid memories of an unforgettable journey into your past.

ItalyMONDO has a blog section too, and I was lucky enough to be interviewed for their first Saturday Spotlight! Go over and check it out and see what else Peter has to say! It was such a pleasure to have a leisurely lunch with them, and I am sure bel ragazzo and I will cross their paths when our Australian holiday is over and we return to the bel paese.

Australia vs Italy: Driving

Apparently this is the hottest, continuous weather for the month of November - which is still spring time here in Melbourne, Australia. We have had a taste of summer, with temperatures already in the low - mid 30s. It was 35 degrees two days ago, today is a cooler 29 degrees and it's back up to 35 degrees tomorrow, so we are off to the the beach! My grandparents have a holiday house by the sea where we always go, so we are packing up baby and all and having a break for two nights!

I must say that it is very nice to be back in such an orderly country - especially after being based in Sorrento which (since it is the province of Naples) is one of the most hectic and crazy parts of Italy. So ladies and gents, that brings us to the next episode of Australia vs Italy! - Driving!

I have already been driving back here in Melbourne and must say that it is such an easy, calming, pleasure. The roads are so wide, so straight and so empty! I keep getting distracted by all the people waving to say "thanks" when they drive.



I must amidst to being a waver. I like to show gratitude and for others to show me such respect when I let them push in front of me with their cars. When I first drove in Sorrento (with bel ragazzo in the car as my driving /make sure she does not kill someone instructor) he used to look at me and get impatient as I used to waste (precious) time waving.

Let me give you an example, as you may be thinking bel ragazzo sounds a bit nasty...but no - I soon learnt there is not point in waving thanks OR expecting thanks in the province of Naples. One day we were driving along the normally busy streets of Sorrento. The road has one lane going in each direction, and no parking signs line the busy street, but of course the traffic warden turns a blind eye as his mother double parks her old cinque cento on the curb out front of the supermarket. His brother-in-law has just bought a new car, so as he dashes to the bar for a (not so quick) coffee he badly parks the new car on the busy street. A young boy pulls up on a dangerous corner and the traffic warden is about to send him away when he realises that the boy is his wifes brothers cousins uncles godson - so of course he can park in that highly illegal and dangerous place! Oh - that woman is pretty with her short skirt - what's that? Just off to the post office for a minute. Sure, she can park there too. And the man who will only be a minute in the bank, and the child who looks to young to be driving a car anyway...and the.....

So you can imagine the scene as I am trying to navigate the car down the packed, busy street, avoiding hitting a scooter as they come whizzing from behind on my left and right. You need to look everywhere when you drive in Italy - especially in this part of Italy. So anyways...I was talking about waving. Yes, waving. In those early days I was nice Leanne. I remember a man stopped his car so I could turn, so being the nice Leanne that I am I waved. I however at this stage did not have the ability to wave and drive at the same time (I am not stupid but in Australia we drive on the other side of the road.) So here I am waving, and smiling thinking how nice this man is when bel ragazzo hisses - Vai, Vai!!! Go, Go!!! - are you crazy! He's letting you go so why are you stopping! Just turn. People were starting to honk behind me and all flustered I turn the corner.

At the bottom of the street I decide to return the favour as an old, hunched, can barely see over the steering wheel woman is trying in vain to turn onto the busy street. I signal for her to go, and give her a big smile. I am nice don't forget. Or I should say was nice. The old thing takes her time turning in front of me without as much as a nod of the head! I was angered...furious....stupid, old, ungrateful thing!


From that day on I changed. Nice, good, kind Leanne was left behind. My bel ragazzo driving instructor was shocked at my sudden change. You have become Italian he commented. Good. It is the only way to drive (or did he mean survive) here. From that point on we had a rule - no one and we meant NO ONE was going to get in front of us. No more letting people cut in front. Even if they drive straight at you...do not let them in. Pedestrian crossing...they are nothing but stripes on the road. No time to let the people cross either. Porca %$&*&^ Pezzo di &^%$# C%**& B&^%$#@& get out of my way!!!!!

So, now I am in Melbourne and the other day was happily waving to everyone who let me pass, and who was thanking me for letting them in. At one stage I was in a narrow street and there was an on coming car. We stopped for a good 10 seconds, busy waving back and forth as we were both too polite to go through first. Ahhh....that's what I call driving.

The destruction of Montecassino

Back at the start of season, when it was still lovely, refreshing and cool (rather the sweat box that Sorrento is today) we visited the well known Montecassino Monastery.

The monastery was founded by St Benedict in about 529 and is well known today as the abbey that was built, then destroyed, built again and once more destroyed and so on.

The start of the abbey's destructive history began in about 577 when it was destroyed by the Longobards of Zotone.

It was commissioned to be rebuilt in the 8th century. It was rebuilt in all its original splendour...and some more but only lasted until 883 when the Saracens invaded and burnt the monastery to the ground, not before stealing all the valuables inside.

Slowly the monastery was rebuilt, and the monks (who had been scared off) returned towards the middle of the tenth century. Over the years the abbey was once again filled with beautiful, priceless objects.

The next destruction came in 1349. This time it was Mother Nature who destroyed nearly ever aspect of the monastery bar one or two old walls. That year there was a powerful earthquake that left the monastery in ruins.

Again, slowly the abbey was rebuilt and made ever more beautiful then ever. Do you think that it was stuck down again, or left in one piece this time?

On February 15, 1944, during the final stage of World War II, the unfortunately placed abbey was in the literal middle of two fighting armies. During the war the abbey had become a place of refuge and in an amazing three hours the whole abbey was turned into rubble, not even an old wall was left standing and many poor refugees and monks died.

Once again the abbey was rebuilt - the whole project being financed by the Italian State - and the original, ancient architectural patterns were used. Reconstruction took more than a decade and these are my photos below:

Italian funeral traditions

My bisnonna - Great Grandmother - passed away a few days ago. She was 93 years old and was actually a great great grandmother to my nephew...there aren't many people who could say they are a great great grandmother!

For along time she has lived in a nursing home due to very poor health and in the end she could not even speak or think clearly so it is better this way.

My great uncle also died a few months ago while I was in Italy and my twin sister asked if the funeral procession would be driving past my great grandmothers home. I had no idea what my twin was talking about, and why she would ask such a bizarre question but she said when our great uncle died the funeral procession drove past his home. It is apparently tradition in some parts of Italy (and other countries) that you have to leave the front door or a window slightly open to allow the spirit of the dead person to leave should they still be inside their home.

Our great uncle (grand fathers brother) and our bisnonna (grand mothers mother) were both born in Puglia, Italy and once in Melbourne they all lived surrounded by Italians. My twin said that when the funeral procession passed his house all his friends were outside waving goodbye to him as the Hurst drove pass. This is a lovely tradition but in my great grandmothers case the procession will not drive pass her house as she has been in the nursing home for many years.

I was looking on the Internet for some information about this tradition and did not come across anything in particular as it seems there are so many different ways people arrange funerals. I myself have not attended a funeral since my great grandfather passed away many years ago, so perhaps it is befitting that the next funeral should have been for his wife.

Carnevale time in Italy

It is Carnevale time in Italy! Bel ragazzo and I spoke this morning (only 12 more days till we are together!!) and he said there is still snow in Malito, but that it is also time for their Carnevale festivities. (Don't forget he is not actually in Italy but his family keep him updated.) This time last year we were together in Malito for the Carnevale and he took me to see the southern version of the Venice Carnevale..then we dressed up and ran around his village with masks on - as is the norm in Malito at this time of the year. You can read here all about it.

Australia vs Italy: Toilet wars

If someone was to ask me the best thing about Australia and the worst thing about Italy - the answer would be the same thing.

Public toilets.

Yes, I know there are many more deep issues I could concentrate on, but I am a lady who goes to the toilet all the time so for me, this is an important topic.

In Italy, the toilets as a whole are a filthy, dirty, smelly room with no toilet seat, never ever any toilet paper, pee all over the floors and most of the time no soap to wash your hands. And this ladies and gentlemen is not those public toilets at the train stations (which you expect to be a bit vile) but in some of the best bars and restaurants in Italy.

Picture this: a cocktail bar which sits a across the road and a level above the Colosseum. You can sit out on the terrace, drink a chilled cosmopolitan and think 'this is the life.' Until you go to the toilet and almost pass out from the retched stench. The floors are covered in grates so your heels get stuck in the pee fill holes, you don't want to touch the dirty toilet bowl, but then you don't want to touch the walls either...oh and there you have it - no toilet paper so you have to search around in your handbag in the semi-dark for a tissue.

Ok, you think, this is a way for them to get back at the drunk tourists...fair enough. So picture this. A large shopping complex in Cosenza, Calabria. You have a great variety of shops, no tourist unless they were seriously lost would find themselves here and you have...well no one really but locals. There may be no grates on the floor, and this time they do have soap to wash your hands but the staff seem to use the public bathrooms as a smoking lounge, the flush doesn't work unless you like me have learnt to push it in a particular fashion, and god forbid they should have toilet paper...no. It seems that it is against the law to have toilet paper in Italian toilets.

Then we have Australia (or Melbourne in this case.) Music often fills the public toilets in shopping centres, the cubicles are large, clean, oh and is that a full roll of clean toilet paper I see? The toilet seat looks crystal clean, the floor is spot less and the soap is a plenty.

Note to all: In Italy carry a packet of tissues with you at all times. In Australia just go to the toilet even if you don't have to as it is such a pleasant experience!

Mayhem at Rome airports

I am so glad that I am not working here in Rome today!

Since yesterday the Ciampino airport has been closed since a Ryan Air flight from Frakfurt had to make an emergency landing at Ciampino due to bird interferance. As the plane was making its decent, a number of birds hit the plane and got sucked into the engine causing substantial damage. The customers had to evacuate the plane by emergency chutes and seven people were sent to hospital with minor injuries. The plane is now sitting at Ciampino with one part of the engine on the ground. Some flights were to gain entry into the airport, but then the ground staff decided to throw a last minute sciopero (strike) without any warning so now the airport is closed...

Oh and that's not all. Don't forget that Rome has two airport, we also have the main international airport Fiumicino aka Leonardo da Vinci. Since yesterday Alitalia decided at the last minute and again without warning to go on strike, cancelling about 20 flights and leaving thousands stranded. My colleague who has taken over from me has just come back from the airport as she has customers who have been waiting since yesterday to fly home. No one even offered them a bottle of water and no one has been communicating with customers as to when or how they will be re protected on other flights. The issue with Alitalia is basically that they have been taken over by CAI and staff are not happy with the new work contracts.

So yes - as you can see I am very happy that I am not working today in Rome! I think I may see what's on at the cinema...I am a lady of leisure after all.

Dual citizenship

Lulu over at Calabrisella Mia is well on the way to getting her dual citizenship, and hopefully one day soon will be moving to Italy, and maybe even living in a little village on the other side of Malito.

She got me thinking about how lucky I was to have my dual citizenship sorted before I had even decided to live in Italy. It was very easy thanks to laziness or lack of money...I am not sure which. You see my dad has a large family and 52 years ago they all said goodbye to their small Calabrian village, Policastrello, and migrated to Australia.

I am not sure of the particulars, but for some reason only half of the children were naturalized as Australian Citizens while the other half remained Italian (I think it was the eldest children who obtained Australian Citizenship.) What ever the reason it worked in my favour that dad remained an Italian Citizen till only a few years ago.

Now a days my dad is an Australian Citizen and the story is actually quite funny. It took him 52 years to return to Italy, and it took him about 50 years to even leave Australia! A few years ago my parents decided to holiday in Vietnam...the only problem it seemed was that dad did not have a passport, not Italian, not Australian...nothing. I don't know on what grounds he had been living in Australia, don't get me wrong - he was a legal resident who used to own a business and was a tax payer his whole life, but I am not sure of the particulars, of what documentation he was given when he migrated.

So the day comes when mum and dad want to go on a holiday and dad has to get naturalized so he can get an Australian passport to leave the country! It was so funny when they told me. After 50 odd years living in Australia finally he swears alliance to his not so new home so he can go on a holiday!



EDIT: My twin has since commented below that Dad did not become an Australian Citizen as he could not make it to the office since he had to work!

Some foolish and not so foolish questions on Italy.

Question and answer time again! Jewel has a few questions as she is planning a trip to Italy next year! This time she has asked me if you can get by in Italy with knowing only a small amount of the language.

The answer is yes. You can get by in Italy without knowing Italian. Of course it does help you to learn a few key phrases, and you'll find when you use them, (or when you get them wrong) people will be so endeared that you tried! I travelled alone in Italy for 4 weeks and at this stage I only knew the basic phrases. I somehow managed to get from the north of Italy up by the Lakes, all the way down to Calabria, detouring through Rimini, Perugia and Puglia...so if I can do it anyone can do it!

Truthfully a lot of Italians speak English, especially in the larger touristy towns. If you find yourself in a small isolated town, and no one can understand your bad Italian or sign language then I bet you anything that the town folk will run off, hunt down an English speaker and bring them to you... Really, they would! If you plan on getting off the beaten track and discovering places like Calabria, Basilicata etc... then a small Italian phrase book would come in useful but in other parts of Italy you can get by on English alone.

Some other questions courtesy of my customers:

Do Italians only eat piazza and pasta? People ALWAYS ask me this...always. The answer is "no you ignorant fools. NO! Do British people just drink beer all the time...NO! Let me make this easy for you, have you never heard of Jamie Oliver? He's British, like you. He did that great special on Italy, and even published that beautiful Italian cook book...so instead of asking me such brain dead, feeble questions go and do a bit of research, go and look at a menu at a restaurant...or if you cannot be bothered go and drink a beer and leave me alone." (if only I could answer like that.)

Italians eat so much garlic why do they not smell? A young customer who went to the emergency room here in Rome asked me this. Seems he has a garlic allergy and due to the amount of garlic in his garlic mushrooms he took a turn for the worse. (Yes - I know...why order garlic mushrooms if you cannot stomach garlic?) I had no answer to this question. I could tell him we eat lots of garlic to ward off vampires...but in the end I just sort of laughed his question off. I do that a lot of the time, as some of the questions my guests ask me a ridiculous.

Can I do a day trip to Sicily from Rome? It seems that most people do not even look at a map before coming on holiday. When I lived in Sicily people always were shocked when I told them it would take about 4 hours to drive from Taormina to Palermo. They thought Sicily was like a small Greek Island. Here in Rome it is even worse as they do not even realise that Sicily is the island, right down below Calabria. I tell them that a day trip technically is possible, but that had best book a flight as the train will taken them about half a day to get there. If I have a map of Italy to hand I get them to look so 1) they can see how silly their question was 2) they can see that Sicily is an island...and not really a 'day trip' from Rome. (People also often ask about trips to Venice...)


Any more questoins that anyone has?

Italy question time again.

Question and answer time again!

Jewel want so know 'what are the working hours like in Rome?'

Working hours in Rome depend what type of employment you have. Most shops here tend to open at 10:00am and close at 8:00pm. These days very few shops in the centre of Rome close for the lunch time. Some of the smaller, family run shops will close for a few hours, as do a lot of the smaller shops outside of the city walls, but most in the centre will remain open.

Office hours in Rome differ from company to company, but they tend not to be too different from the UK or Australia. Most people head into work from about 8.30am and leave anywhere from 5pm onwards.

When I worked in Taormina last year nearly everything closes for the lunch period with only a chemist, restaurants and tourist shops being open from 13:00 - 16:00 (well these hours were very flexible. Some people used to close and never open again, some would shut at 12:00 and open again at 18:00 - it was anything goes in Taormina.)



Jewel has also asked 'Apart from pick pockets, is it safe for a girl to travel on her own there or go out at night?'

This is a good question and the answer is YES. Rome is a safe city as long as you use common sense. Italy in fact is a very safe place for solo travellers. I travelled for the first time by myself for 4 weeks in Italy a few years ago. I had friends with me for the first two weeks but for the last 4 weeks I travelled around all on my own and felt very safe.



No one else has asked any specific questions so I will answer questions that my guests all ask me. Some may seem rather foolish, but they are sadly commonly asked questions.

Do Italian women not sweat? This is such a common stupid question! Really...My female customers always tell me that they see flawless looking Italian women walking around in their suits and stiletto's in the peak of summer without shedding as much as a drop of sweat. I will let you in on the secret. These Italian women do not take public transport. The do not walk around the city for hours on end in the midday heat. Most probably they drive to work, or are dropped off at work and the furthest they walk is outside to have a cigarette, or maybe they cross the road to get a coffee.

Why don't Italians speak Spanish? Spain it seems is the preferred holiday destination for the British. Parts of Spain have become a mini Britain, just with better weather. A lot of my guests know a few Spanish words, and like to use them in Italy. They then get shocked or rather offended when the Italians look at them like they are crazy. Bel ragazzo used to get so annoyed in the hotel when English guests would speak to him in Spanish as 1) He does not speak Spanish 2) He speaks fluent English so if you cannot speak to him in Italian, at least address him in the language you both seem to speak 3) Spanish is not the same as Italian. So many guests do not seem to comprehend that Spanish is one language and Italian is another. Yes, they are similar but they are not the same.



Any other questions? If not I have plenty of foolish questions to share with you. Here's a little taste of questions to come, thanks to my silly customers. Do Italians only eat piazza and pasta? Italians eat so much garlic why do they not smell? Can I do a day trip to Sicily from Rome?

Are Italian men hot or what?

Some more questions have come in! I love to answer questions and I hope to be leaving Rome soon so ask me about Rome/Italy while you can...as once I leave here I hope to never live in the Eternal City again.

Jewel wants to know "are all Italian men hot or is that just a stereotype?"

Good question! I would first like to state that perhaps I am biased as I am of Italian blood and more importantly I have found myself one of the best looking and nicest Italians in Italy. So in my opinion a lot of Italian men are hot...in particular the Calabrese! (Sorry, but my bel ragazzo is from Calabria - so it's true!)

Italian men seem to be better looking then other nationalities since they take such pride in their appearance. It does not matter what sort of look they have, be it classy, grunge, casual or retro...what ever it is their look is very rarely achieved by accident.

Italian men even admit that they like to look good and they like to match. Bel ragazzo will not like that I wrote this on my blog (damn him speaking fluent English!)but he likes to match his shoes with his belt...he thinks this is quite normal. He would never, ever dream of leaving the house with his tracksuit on even if it is to just pop downstairs to buy some bread. Even when we go to the park for a picnic he likes his runners to match his t-shirt...and my bel ragazzo is hardly fashion conscious when compared to other Italians.

You have the sexy men in their 3 piece suits who really do look like they came off the runway and you have at the other end of the scale the Italians who I think are 'too cool for school.' I noticed this the other day whilst out and about that even the most 'casually dressed' Italians are so cool with the latest fashion accessories. The actual faces may not be that attractive, but often you are so distracted by the amazing dress sense that the face is not even important.



Some Italians however go overboard with their 'look' and a lot of Italian men and women can be very vain. A lot are also so obsessed with looking like everyone else, or better then everyone else, or having to have the latest pair of Ray Bans that they will spend all their money on designer clothes, and be in debt all their lives. I wrote about my experience with the folk of Cosenza here

There is also a common misconception that Italians are all dark, sexy and sultry. A lot of people come to Italy with the day dream that all Italians are dark haired, dark eyed Lotharios. A lot are dark haired and eyed but there are also a lot of blonds, red heads, blue eyes, green eyes and pale skined Italians floating around. (My bel ragazzo has gorgeous green eyes.) In the north of Italy you will find a lot of lighter featured people, while the further south you go generally they do tend to be darker types. Saying this however when I lived in Sicily last year I was shocked at the number of blue eyed men there were.

All in all as a whole I think that Italians are some of the best look men that I have ever come across. There are obviously lots of badly dressed, ugly Italians out there but the well dressed, good looking Italians make up for this. The main reason Italians seem to be so much better looking then other nationaities is their attitude, their confidence and the way they carry themselves. Nothing can be better looking then a man (or woman) who is sure of themselves.

What do you think? Anyone aree or disagree that Italians are amongst some of the best looking people

Tipping in Itay

In yesterdays post Jewel asked me a very good question about tipping in Italy. Rather then answer it in the comments I have decided to answer it here as a lot of people may have been asking themselves this same question.

World wide there are different tipping 'guidelines.' As Jewel pointed out, and as most of us know from either visiting American, or watching movies it is expected to tip for pretty much everything and anything in the U.S. When I first visited New York I had no idea when or how much to tip. I remember someone opened the door to the apartment block and I thought 'well is this tip worthy?'

In Australia we do not have a tip policy. If you want to leave a tip for exceptional service or food then you can leave what ever you like. It is not expected but always welcomed.

Italy is pretty much the same as Australia in the fact that you do not have to tip. It is totally up to you.

When you dine out in Italy, or should I say main cities and tourist places then you need to be aware of the following:

Service or cover charge that you get charged in restaurants. Most restaurants in main cities will charge a fee, be it a 2 euro cover charge per person, or an extra percent service charge added to the bill. This must legally be stated on the menu, but sometimes they can be sly and put it somewhere not easy to find so that you don't realise until it's too late. There is no set cover charge fee, however in Rome it is normally about 2 euro per person. Technically this cover charge is like an already included tip.

In a lot of main cities you will also be charged for things you assume to be free. When the waiter leaves a basket of bread on the table most of the time there will be a fee which should be written on the menu, anything from 50 cents up per person (a lot of the time bread too can be 2 euro per person.)

Often restaurants will offer you an after dinner drink such as a limoncello or grappa. They may make it sound as if it is free, but it is not. If it is free they let you know by saying something like 'courtesy of the house.'

Not all restaurants charge you the extras, in small villages or less touristy places they would not dream of doing this. If they did no one would eat there! Here in Rome, Venice, Florence etc... they do not care to please locals as they can make more money from the ignorant tourist. I have been out for dinner with many Italians who come from small, non-tourist villages and they have been shocked that here you have to pay for bread, and for a cover charge.

When it comes to paying the bill make sure you look to see that no 'extras' have been added on. If you don't want to pay for the bread tell them to take it away. A lot of the time NO TIP is necessary as you have already paid a hefty cover charge. If you wish to tip on top of this then it is up to you. Some people (mostly only the tourists as Italians rarely tip) leave some spare change.

In hotels again tipping is not necessary but it is welcomed. There is no set rule. You can leave 1 euro or 100 euro. You can chose to leave a tip for the cleaners, the reception staff, the waiters. Most hotels share the tips, but as in every country some people are sly, so if there is someone in particular you feel has done a great job leave a sealed envelope directly with them, or their manager. If you think the hotel as a whole has been great then you can leave a tip and tell them it is for everyone. I would recommend leaving the tip in a sealed envelope as this way no one can see how much you are leaving, and it may help you feel less embarrassed if you are not sure about how much to leave. Let me state again however that no tip is expected. Each to there own. If you do not leave a tip no one will give you the evil eye, no one will chase you out of the hotel as no one expects is, they only appreciate it.

Locked away behind fancy bars

Venice is so lovely that it is only natural the the prison too is attractive.





We walked past the prison numerous times as it was on the end of our street. At first I thought it was just another nice old building, but then there is a sign asking you to walk two metres away from the walls...still though. The most pictureesque prison I have ever seen!

An island off an island in Venice

Bel ragazzo and I were only in Venice for 2 nights but that was long enough for us to see the main highlights of the island itself and also to enjoy a trip to some of the outer islands.

During my previous trips I had never visited the islands and had read that Burano in particular was not to be missed. Burano is a small fishing island which also happens to be famous for its lace industry. One of the main draw cards is the fact that the houses are all painted bright, vibrant colours. Legend has it that the fishermen used to paint their houses in these shades so that after a long day at sea, they could spot their home as they sailed towards the island. I believe this as when we were sailing away, you could still spot this island from afar as the houses really are painted such bright colours. Have a look for yourself:



There's only about 5000 people living on the island and it has the such a beautiful atmosphere.



The brightly coloured houses make you feel so cheerful! Have a read of the plaque this person has put by their front door.





If it weren't for the brightly painted houses then the island would be just another nice island...but with a bit of paint it has been transformed into such a unique place. For such a small island it is bursting with activity, there is a main piazza with lots of restaurants, bars and shop after shop after shop selling tourist goods. If you ever go to Venice make sure you take the water boat and visit this fairytale island.

The city that was built on water

We are back from a lovely couple of nights in Venice!



This was my third trip to the enchanting and sometimes smelly city on water, and this is actually the first time that it smelt. It is not as bad as some people make out, and is normal when you consider that Venice is a city built on water. Every now and then you get a waft of a sulphur like odour, but then the beauty and uniquness of the city makes the smells the least of your concerns.

The first time I visited Venice was many, many years ago when I was back packing around Europe with my twin sister and her husband. We were on a very tight budget (35 euros per day) and slept at a camp site on the main land, taking the water bus each day to the island. The first time we were there it was August if my memory serves (which it probably doesn't) and we slept in a mosquito infested camp by night, and walked the ancient cobbled streets by day, admiring the gondolas and thinking how we really could not afford it but how exciting it would be.

My second trip to Venice was a few years ago when I was living in London and took a short trip with my Italian friend to visit her village of Bassano del Grappa which was a short train ride from Venice. We took the train in for the day to experience the delights of the Venice Carnevale!

And now my third trip was with the bel ragazzo. It was his first time in Venice. A few months ago he said that he always wanted to go to Venice with someone special...so assuming that I would be special enough for him I booked 2 tickets as a surprise part of his birthday present.



This time around we had saved some money so we could relax in...not style as such but at least be able to sleep on the island and not be eaten alive by mosquitos at night. Let me tell you one thing - Venice is expensive. Really it is. We rang B&Bs first thinking these would be the most cost effective option, but after being quoted 175 euro per night at one B&B (most of them around 120 euro) we decided if we have to pay that sort of money it may as well be for a legitimate hotel. So we entered Venice with the knowledge that it was expensive, and we had not spent much money on ourselves this year, so we thought why not splash out a bit.

In the end we booked a 3 star hotel which was very nice and small (and cost a lot less then 175 euro per night) the staff were so friendly and helpful and they had a gorgeous little outside courtyard for the breakfast. We spent our times wandering the streets, walking along the canals and getting very lost. Venice maps are a waste of time. Bel ragazzo prides himself on his navigation skills but even this time he had to admit defeat.



Oh, and of course we took a gondola trip!



We couldn't say no. It was expensive, but we wanted to do something romantic...something different and what better way to see Venice by night then go gliding through the empty canals in a beautiful gondola? The going rate for the night time is 100 euro for 30 minuutes (day time is 80 euro for 40 minutes as there is traffic) but we managed to get him down to 90 euro. It was about 10pm and it was so peaceful and relaxing to glide along the canals. At one stage we even passed a movie crew who were filming. The gondolier sang, there was no one about and it really was one of the highlights of our trip. More of the trip and photos tomorrow!

My move to Italy - Part 5

If you are just catching up: Parts 1 2 3 4


I arrived back into a cold and wintery Melbourne and was greeted by my parents at the airport. We had not spoken on the phone while I was away and they got quite a shock when I told them in the car that I was going to quit my job the next day and buy a one way plane ticket to London.

They thought I was mad, that I was joking, but I had never been more sure of anything in my whole life.

I could have had everything I wanted in Australia, but I viewed this as some sort of personal test. I knew 'someone' was testing me to see if I really was ready to give it all up for a try at Italy.

True to my word the next day I quit my job (and yes, they were a little miffed at having given me 6 weeks holidays and then I quit the first day back. I begged to leave straight away but they made me stay a whole month...as punishment I am sure.)

With the job finished, and my bags packed it was a mere 6 weeks since I had left that I found myself heading back yet again to the northern hemisphere (no point wasting time I say!)

Since my holiday in Italy I was determined to live there. I had become obsessed watching every movie that had ever been made about Italy and reading as many books as I could get my eager hands on. I was at my grandparents once a week for Italian lessons and annoying everyone by trying to speak Italian (albeit very badly.) I was so relaxed, so happy, so impatient to go. The 'pull' of Italy was getting stronger and stronger, it really did feel like a physical force reeling me in. I was not scared, not worried that I was being hasty, not preoccupied with finding a job. I just knew it would be easy - because it felt right.

Since I could not speak Italian, and although I did not mind being a dishwasher, I wanted to try and go via London for a job. I had no actual family in Italy and no where really to stay. I could have stayed in my dads small village of 150 people, but then that is not the best place for job hunting!

Based on a friends advice I went to London, determined to find a job working with this UK travel company that she had recommended. I found a share flat (a sign surely when I was met by 2 Italian housemates) I found a great job (someone testing me yet again as after 2 months I was offered a full time contract paying a a handsome wage...) and then finally the time came for my interview - my chance to go to Italy.

Well here I am - writing from Rome...so the rest they say is history.

I always said if you want something badly enough then it's yours.



P.S the bel ragazzo came along later. You can read about us meeting here and here

Too many people in Rome

Once upon a time (or 10 years ago as bel ragazzo tells me) Rome was a ghost town in August. The whole town set sail, hit the road, flew far a field to escape the summer heat and enjoy a month of holidays.

When I first came to Italy for a holiday 6 years ago my twin, her husband and I were sweating in the August heat in Naples trying to find a bar open to buy a drink...everything was closed and the streets were empty.

When I first moved to Rome in 2006 I was expecting the town to be deserted in August. I remember watching on the news footage of the vacant streets in Milan, thinking how nice and quiet it was. Rome never got as quiet as Milan or the other big cities as it was still over run with tourists, but there were at least less local cars on the road.

This summer however is a different story. Correct me if I am wrong fellow Rome dwellers - but I think that there are the same amount of cars on the road as April, July, December. It could just be any other month! Get out of town!!!! Leave me be!!! At least give us a little peace and quiet since we have to stay here and suffer in the heat!

Perhaps no one can afford holidays this year? Perhaps they have to stay and holiday here, or god forbid - work the whole month through like me!

Anyway - good news is I have the Internet again. Telecom it seems are over efficient. They said they would not be able to come until at least 19th August...and now look - I am on line! A technician came this morning and fixed it all within minutes.

So here are some photos of my less then private courtyard, so maybe it makes sense now.

It is dirty as there is no drain...so even though bel ragazzo
tried to clean it, the dirty water has no where to go.


These are the windows head level looking into the courtyard - they are not our windows so the neighbours can literally see everything.




Oh and everyone else can look down onto our courtyard too...



And this is the hole where the rabbit came from, but today there was just the neighbours cat for a visit.